Pedal bike in 3rd, stop pedaling (drop ) shifter into first - then release clutch lever and ROLLING START : We have a technique for pedal starting your bike after trans system was installed. Watch video "kickstarting is very easy to do => see video below. NOTE: The transmission system does not allow for 'Bump starting' does not work with this THIRD GEAR = OVERDRIVE! - 3rd gear is 133% of 2nd gear which is a 33% increase of your TOP END! This means youĬan cruise = fast & smooth with the engine running at lower rpms! Using my Kit #5 and #6 have reached 50+ mph. "Rev"/ the throttle up to around 32 mph in 2nd then, reach back and drop it into 3rd! CLUTCH IS NOT USED FOR SHIFTING w/ this SECOND GEAR - Operates very close to the same gear ratio of our standard Motorized Stingray Kit with a 38 Tooth Rearĭrive gear. * SHIFTS WITH A SIMPLE 'CLICK' OF SHIFTERįIRST GEAR - In 1st gear, throttle up to around 20 mph or so then, remove hand from throttle and simply click stick shift forward Prices are the same for you and this blog receives a small commission.A FEW of the many BENEFITS OF OUR 3 SPEED TRANSMISSION SYSTEM / KIT Download it at the LINK.Īn easy (and free) way to support this site is by clicking this link to do your Amazon shopping. There’s a few more photos of the motor mounting plate in my BUILD YOUR OWN ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE PDF. If I ever need to adjust the position of the motor side-to-side, I can loosen the nuts on either side of the plate and move it one direction or the other. Stainless steel nylock nuts and washers went on both sides of the adapter plate and on the outsides of the motorcycle frame. Once I rounded off all the edges, I put the plate in the motorcycle, and ran threaded rods (3/8″ and 5/16″, which matched the holes in the frame) through the frame attachment points, through the plate, and through the matching attachment point. I also traced the outline of the motor on the plate. I will later add another attachment point on the front with an angle bracket.Īt that point, I could just put the motor and plate together to confirm that all the holes lined up. I then sketched right on the plate “tabs” of where the plate would extend to the existing mounting points on the frame – one on the bottom and one on the high side of the back. I test-fit the plate in place on the motorcycle, with the drive-shaft hole lining up with the marks on the frame indicating where the chain originally went. That gave me a plate of aluminum with a central hole for the driveshaft, and four holes to mount the motor to the plate. Using a drill press, I simply drilled holes of the appropriate size (the size is marked right on the diagram!) right through the crosshairs on the piece of paper. I cut out the piece of paper and then glued it (rubber cement) to the aluminum plate. The motor is compact enough that the whole image fit on one 8.5×11″ sheet. In a graphic design program, I simply made sure that the measurements on the diagram matched up to 100% actual scale, and printed it out on paper. Rather than making a template from scratch, or drilling holes based on careful measurements of the motor, I simply made my own paper template based on the PDF file that I already had of the mechanical drawing of the motor. Those holes are already just about where I needed them and it meant I didn’t have to make any new holes in the frame. On this project, I re-used the existing mounting points in the frame of the cycle where the engine and transmission originally bolted in place. The plate also needs mounting points to connect it to the frame of the motorcycle. The plate needs to have a hole in the middle of it for the driveshaft to pass through and four holes in the appropriate locations for the bolts to mount the motor to the plate. I built mine from a piece of scrap 1/4″ aluminum plate that I had around. To do this build an “Adapter Plate” or “Motor Mounting Plate”. Once you have your motor selected and in-hand, you need some way to physically mount the motor where you need it to go in the motorcycle.
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